Tag Archives: Casual

Match it, Match it good!

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I finally finished the plaid shirt! I’ve never spent so much time on a project with this inexpensive of a fabric, but I’m glad I did. I posted my hopes and intentions on my last blog. That sure put me on the spot, and I needed to follow through. May not do that again…

IMG_2307To add complication, I decided to make a pattern from my favorite shirt shown on the left. There are two of these are in my closet in different colors. I’ve only drafted a pattern a few times, and never with a complex piece of clothing (darts, pleats, placket, pockets). The drafting went well, but the first muslin was too small. I know it looks great on Roxanne, but she is the size I want to be. LOL

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After adjusting the pattern I jumped right in without a second muslin. Frankly, I couldn’t wait to post this, but a few fitting adjustments still need to be done on the final shirt. The changes then need to be documented on the final pattern for next time, and there will be a next time!Plaid-shirt4

Referring back to the last post, most of my stated design goals were accomplished in the shirt. Two related coordinating fabrics are used to break up all that plaid. My new embroidery machine performed flawlessly, and I smile at the unexpected fine embroidery on the casual flannel fabric.Embroidery DetailThe final desire was an interesting back pleat, and on the diagonal. The uneven plaid was tough to match in back, but at least I avoided matching the sides.Plaid-back

However, the sides came out well despite my not even trying. Don’t you love it when things just work out like that? Is this what you expected after reading my first blog?Plaid-back-side

Diane Ericson’s Ashland Vest

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Ashland-Vest_1It’s always a treat to make a pattern designed by Diane Ericson, and the new Ashland Vest is no exception. Her patterns are just more than a typical pattern. More creativity, more ways of sewing up the project, and more detailed options to use on this pattern or others. Each pattern is a lesson in sewing and finding one’s own voice, and not just copying Diane’s work. She encourages fearless creativity, and with those thoughts in mind my BSF and I opened up the pattern last week.

After taking a good look at the pattern and dimensions we decided to make a medium, and I think that was the right choice for us. Another might want a roomier feel and make a large. We also chose to use the front piece with a dart. Thanks to Diane for providing this option! I went to my stash and found two wonderful woven Japanese cottons and then a lovely brick-red striped linen for the lining. The Japanese cottons are different but beautiful on both sides, so that made 4 coordinating fabrics! In addition I turned them 90° to emphasize the differences.Ashland-Vest_4

BTW, the cottons are a dark brown and the linen has a black stripe. They look great together! There’s no need to get out a magnifying glass to match colors.

The pocket is exactly from the pattern, and there are no alterations except in the lapel. One pattern option is a wavy edge fold-over lapel exposing the lining. When finished, my stripe produced an optical illusion and the wavy edge just looked crooked rather than wavy. I had trimmed, clipped and pressed, and eventually decided for more wave. The shoulders were now finished so I couldn’t easily go back in to sew stronger curves at the seam. I was almost out of the linen (a bias strip would have worked well), and no other fabric looked good. Ashland-Vest-DetailPlan B, I made several matching strips from the leftover linen (there are seams to make it long enough). Then I serged a rolled hem on each side and slightly gathered the strips.  I placed the desired curves on the lapel and stitched it down to the edge. Great…a tailored vest with a ruffled edge. Didn’t work for me. I then just stitched down the loose edge so there is more structure. I like it, and in fact now think the bit of pucker adds a strong edge to the lapel.Ashland-Vest

Cool Summer Shirt

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I love this new pattern by Marcy Tilton! Vogue 9089, a tunic length shirt, is a fairly quick sew and feels fantastic on. My BSF and I got together and both made a version. Her shirt is out of heavier weight cotton, and she is wearing it often and getting tons of compliments! I made mine out of a cotton lawn so it’s a little early in the season. I did wear it yesterday when our temps hit the high seventies. I took these photos for the blog, and it was so comfortable that I just kept it on for the afternoon.

The only fitting change made was the addition of a FBA. A dart just helps the fit on my body type. In addition I made two minor design changes. I made the sleeve ¾ length, and then I made a crazy change! I like my obvious asymmetrical elements, so I re-drafted the top of the center back panel to land a couple of inches further off-center where it meets the collar. Marcy-V9089-Shirt_3Marcy-V9089-Shirt_2Since I’m new to pattern drafting this probably took me over an hour to figure out and get right. Was it worth it? I like the result, but it was a little picky, and I’m not sure anyone but Marcy Tilton herself would notice. In order to show off my little change the seam is hand stitched.Marcy-V9089-detail

Am I making this again? Definitely!

Everyday Tee #1 with a GDO (Good Design Opportunity)

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Eucalyptus Tee1I want to make some winter T-shirts that are fun, but functional. They need to be washable, and easy care plus I hope to have pockets on most if not all of them. This is my first T in the series. I used Katherine Tilton’s Butterick pattern B5925. This is the first T-shirt I have ever made, but the pattern was easy to follow. I used 4 different knits and stenciled the front. I may add more stencilling later. The neck didn’t come out flat due to the lack of stretch in the knit I used for the binding.Wendy Portrait2 I call these little mishaps GDO’s (Good Design Opportunities) since they force me to rethink a problem and come up with a creative solution. I keep getting compliments on the keyhole neckline so the solution works well.